Official Restaurant Magazine of the Puerto Rico Convention Bureau

For more than 25 years, Julio Mantero has been meeting his guests at the door of the old Ron Caray distillery in Juncos and serving them his trademark grilled sirloin steaks. His restaurant, El Tenedor, is the epitome of "destination dining," the kind of place where the setting is almost as good as the food.

Juncos is only a half hour or so away from San Juan on the Las Americas-Route 30 expressways, and sanjuaneros make up the majority of El Tenedor's clientele. It's easy to see why. The drive is easy, the setting is unique and the food and service are excellent.

The building dates from the 19th century. Rum was produced there by Julio's father in law, until production was stopped in 1942 as a result of World War II. In 1975, Julio and his wife Milagros Hormazabal opened an antique store and small restaurant on the premises. The antique store is long gone, but the restaurant has flourished.

High white ceilings tower over the arched windows and Spanish tile floors in the air-conditioned main dining room, which seats about 130 on high-backed spindle chairs. Red tablecloths and Spanish ironwork contribute to the informal atmosphere-as does the background music by trios like Los Panchos and Los Hispanos. Uniformed waiters carry orders back and forth from the huge hooded grill that is the centerpiece of the room. Larger crowds are accommodated in a 350-seat Activities Room inaugurated in 1990. Two private rooms seating up to 60 are available up a spiral staircase in the tower.

The menu in English and Spanish is eclectic, with tapa-type, family-size appetizers ($3.95-$11.95), "crisp" salads ($1.75-$13.95 for shrimp), sandwiches ($3.00-$3.95), and seafood, chicken, turkey and veal ($9.95-$19.95). Steak, of course, is royal, and sirloin (from $15.95 for 8 ounces to $30.95 for 32 ounces) is the king.

There is no bar, but bar service, including wine from an extensive cava, is available at the tables. There is always a selection of Spanish and Puerto Rican desserts, including El Tenedor's deservedly famous Mil Hojas pastry stuffed with dulce de leche caramel.

El Tenedor (787-734-6573) is open seven days a week for lunch and dinner and accepts all major credit cards. Plan to visit Julio-or son Luis who is taking over his place next to the door-for a warm welcome and a friendly family meal in a truly historic setting.

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