Tables: Puerto Rico's Guide to Great Dining

Now that's Italian!

By Joanne Curcio-Quiñones
Photographs by
Wendy Miranda

Who says you have to be in Rome to eat as the Romans do? With its reputation as the

Linguini and Clams come with a white or pink clam sauce at Piccolo e Posto.

gastronomic capital of the Caribbean, Puerto Rico has become a mecca for food connoisseurs and a proving ground for all types of ethnic foods-especially Italian. The island is home to a fabulous array of Italian restaurants, from small family-style eateries with flavorful classic recipes to elegant dining rooms with masterful and creative twists on old world Mediterranean dishes using only the finest ingredients. The most difficult task aside from listing all of those that are worthy of mention, is choosing among them! With that said, here is some "Italian food for thought"…

Sofia is the latest to join longtime favorites such as Al Dente and Il Perugino in dazzling Italian food fans in Old San Juan. The chic new Italian eatery may be a newcomer to the dining scene, but its owners, who are also behind restaurant hotspots the Parrot Club, Aguaviva, Fogata and Dragonfly, are masters at creating culinary hotspots. The stunning and stylish new Calle San Francisco noshspot features a reasonably priced menu of classic and creative appetizers including Calzoncini Ripieni-mini calzones stuffed with goat cheese and fresh tomatoes; Bresaola-cured Italian beef over arugula and parmesan; and Polipo al Forno-grilled octopus over a garbanzo puree. The sultry red dining room and centuries-old open air courtyard is also the perfect backdrop for enjoying memorable dishes such as Cannelloni d'Anatra-tubes of pasta filled with roasted duck and topped with mascarpone cheese-or Brasato di Cosciotto di Agnello-slow braised lamb shank with fresh Italian herbs. Interestingly, the bar selection is almost as well thought out as the dinner menu, with a choice of European-inspired cocktails and more than 15 wines by the glass.

Home Made Foccacia at Sofia’s, with one of the special Antipasto cheese selections.

Just outside the tourist district in the city of Guaynabo (and certainly worth the short trip), Piccolo e Posto has won the hearts of local diners with its impressive menu of classic Italian recipes, generous portions, fresh flavorful ingredients and affordable prices. Consider it your lucky day if one of the specials of the day is Osso Buco: it's a real crowd pleaser and quite a few people say it's the best they've ever tasted. Stuffed mushrooms and Piccolo's Risotto of the Day (especially if it's seafood) are also sure bets. Pasta lovers are sure to appreciate the homemade Gnocchi alla Nikitino in a rosemary cream sauce, as well as the Shellfish Linguini Fra Diavolo, which is loaded with lobster, shrimp, clams and mussels and doused in a spicy tomato sauce. It's not easy to save room for dessert with Piccolo's ample portions, but making the effort is highly recommended. The tiramisu is to die for and this is also one of the few places where you can find an authentic Italian cannoli-a crunchy horn of pastry filled with creamy sweet ricotta cheese. The casual yet classy dining room also has a brief, but extremely affordable wine menu where, believe it or not, the menu says the wines are sold at cost "to encourage enjoying the food alongside a good glass of wine."

Chef Joe Rao’s grandmother’s original recipe produces a different and delicious cheesecake in strawberry sauce.

Perched high atop the Diamond Palace Hotel and Casino is yet another of the island's premiere spots for enjoying traditional Italian cuisine. Overlooking the tourist district of Condado, Porto Bello wins high marks for its romantic and elegant ambiance, as well as its world class Mediterranean cuisine. Its signature dishes include the tableside prepared Mona Lisa Filet, which consists of two exquisite pieces of beef pan seared in red wine and then a flambé of brandy and meaty mushrooms. Another favorite of the house is the Seafood Supreme, with shrimp, lobster and calamari atop a mountain of linguini with a choice of red or white cream sauce. Veal fans love the Vitello Vesuvio, a colorful combination of veal and shrimp sautéed with lemon, parsley, white wine and a hearty beef stock.

There are several other very good Italian restaurants in the Condado area, including DaLuigi's, where chef/owner Luigi Sanguinelli serves up his flavorful renditions of authentic Italian recipes and makes guests feel right at home in his cozy house-style ambiance. He has a magic touch with classics such as his zesty Puttanesca and fantastic handmade raviolis. Gusta di Italia in the Condado Plaza Hotel is another good choice for those who yearn for straightforward flavorful traditional dishes like a good old-fashioned plate of spaghetti and meatballs or a big chunk of meaty lasagna.