Tables: Puerto Rico's Guide to Great Dining

Latino Steak Houses

Spicing Up Old San Juan

by Erik Steinberg
    Photographs by
      Laura Magruder
      Trace Donaldson

Two recently opened Latin-flavored steakhouses have spiced up the options for fine dining in Old San Juan.

Fogata: Cheddar cheese, shredded potato, cilantro, onion and garlic "cuchifritos" served with sweet jalapeño jelly and soy tamarind sauce.

Fogata, at the Sheraton Hotel, has become popular among sanjuaneros and tourists alike for its top-grade meats and cozy ambiance. Owned by Emilio Figueroa, Gigi Zafero and Chef Roberto Treviño of The Parrot Club, Dragon Fly and Aguaviva, it specializes in meats basked in a tropical flair.

One of the establishment's favorite dishes is the Fogata Grill, a Spanish-Puerto Rican style parrillada boasting fried pork nuggets, flank steak, sausages, chicken, veal chops, vegetables, bread and Spanish tortilla. The dish is served with an array of homemade sauces.

Specialty cocktails have also become famous at the restaurant's impressive bar, made out of solid copper, which seats approximately 60 people. According to David Healey, the restaurant's day manager, three drinks have won the acclaim of customers: "Caribbean Sunrise," with Bacardi Coco, Barrilito rum, orange and acerola juices and grenadine; "Caribbean Sunset," with Barrilito rum, orange and acerola juices and Bacardi Coco; and "Tropical Mojito," a Puerto Rican version of the traditional Cuban drink that blends rum, sugar, crushed mint leaves and lime juice (this one adds a bit of pineapple juice to the original brew).

Fogata’s Calamari Steak, stripped and breaded.

Like Figueroa's other restaurants in SoFo (south of Fortaleza Street), a visitor's first impression when entering Fogata is the warm and inviting atmosphere, coupled with the locale's comfortable dining space.

"We have copper light fixtures, beautiful woodwork, iron grates over the windows and a spectacular view of the bay and cruise ships," says Healey. "For dinner we light up about 200 candles and turn down the lights to give a warm feel to the restaurant."

The second new Latino steakhouse in the Old City is the Tamarind Latino Steakhouse and Seafood Grill, located on Recinto Sur Street, across from the Doña Fela parking garage. Tamarind is award-winning chef Phil Belshaw's newest restaurant, one offering fine dining and drinking in a relaxed atmosphere. It has become a top destination for meat lovers who seek variety and welcome a creative menu.

Tamarind Caribbean Lobster With Mango Pico De Gallo

General manager Jerry Martínez suggests oysters, coconut shrimp or steak turnovers for appetizers. At the bar, fried calamari, assorted Puerto Rican fritters, and a plate of prosciutto and Manchego please the palates of locals and tourists.

As its name suggests, Tamarind plays a major role in the restaurant's kitchen. From sauces to desserts, the tropical fruit is used to concoct an array of tasty dishes. It is also used in specialty cocktails, such as the "Tamarind Martini," with Grand Marnier, Captain Morgan rum and tamarind juice. Another favorite is the "Cuban Kiss," which contains Bacardi Raspberry, Passoa and orange juice.

Tamarind Filet Mignon With Mushroom Salsa & Yuca Fries

When it comes to the entrees, the house specialty is Smoked Rib-Eye Steak served over congri (a mixture of white rice and black beans) with a red wine tamarind sauce. "This is one of the favorites," Martínez says. "Customers love it because it's different. People eat meat everywhere, but they are unlikely to have eaten it with an unbelievably delicious tamarind sauce."

Decorated as a traditional steakhouse, Tamarind Latino boasts wood-covered walls and beautiful woodwork throughout, giving it a warm and relaxed atmosphere. Dimmed lights and ritzy brass/copper fixtures accentuate the moderately conservative décor; oak wood floors balance casual with elegance.