Tables: Puerto Rico's Guide to Great Dining

Dunbar's

A 23-year-old favorite in Ocean Park

By Barbara Tasch Ezratty
Photographs by
Laura Magruder

Detail of a sashimi plate served at Dunbar's.

Years ago, I used to go to Dunbar's mostly for my "wing" fix. They made them five different ways and I never could figure out which one I liked best; they were all so great. (I think I narrowed it down by not ordering "suicide-strength" sauce.) But all of the others were doable: BBQ, mild, hot and Thai Peanut...especially when the beer or soda keeps coming.

As Dunbar's has aged, so have I. The more-popular-than-ever restaurant is 23 years old now; proof that it's doing something right. I'm much older, and although I no longer make the late evening eat, drink, see and be seen, party scene at Dunbar's, I'm still a loyal brunch, lunch and early evening diner there. We often find friends there. And John, partner and maitre d', has become one too, over the years, and we enjoy bantering with him on our visits as well.

Sesame-crusted ahi tuna with a side of lo mein and seaweed salad.

One of the great things about Dunbar's is that my husband and I have wildly different tastes, and Chef Ernesto Alvarado's menu excels in satisfying them both. While I still like the occasional spicy wing appetizer, he's a Bamboo-Steamed Dim Sum man. That's one of Dunbar's most popular appetizers; it comes in a special box with the steamed pork dumplings in a Szechwan soy ginger essence served over a bed of lettuce and amarillos.

For lunch, I am absolutely crazy about the Mediterranean Salad, a bowl filled with crispy romaine tossed in extra virgin olive oil and aged balsamic vinegar topped with roasted peppers, sun-dried tomatoes, kalamata olives, toasted pistachios and crumbled Greek feta cheese and other delights. My man, on the other hand, is smitten with the Sesame-Crusted Ahi Tuna, with all the mysterious things that accompany it. Plus, he gets the olives from my salad.

Chef Ernesto Alvarado

At dinner, I've ordered the Charbroiled Churrasco; he gets the Fajita Combo. Another time, I might crave the Scallop Stir Fry (anything with roasted macadamias gets my vote); he'll be in the mood for Sashimi-that's sushi without rice.

And, did I mention that I'm a chocoholic? And that homemade desserts from Julie's kitchen include a Triple Chocolate Ecstasy Brownie-with either whipped cream or ice cream? Sinful.

Dunbar's food is elegant. The ambiance is casual. The chairs are comfortable, the service friendly. And John's jokes are often enough funny. It's a fun place to eat at any hour.

Dunbar’s
1954 McCleary St.
Ocean Park (San Juan)
787-728-2920

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