Tables: Puerto Rico's Guide to Great Dining

Añasco is fortunate that Roberto Rivera is a loyal native son. This unassuming town on the west coast is known for its beach, not its cuisine. But Rivera has changed all that.

After studying at the Academy of Culinary Arts in Atlantic City, N.J., working as executive chef on private yachts, as the sous chef for The Horned Dorset Primavera in Rincón and the Mayaguez Resort & Casino, this Añasco native came home. In 1998, he opened Capriccio Ristorante, a charming three-story restaurant right behind the Market Square in the center of his hometown.

My parents and I were a bit skeptical... until we stepped into the elegant Italianate interior. With a dramatic golden chandelier spilling over the
Capriccio Beef Carpaccio
Carpaccio de res en Capriccio
center of the room, creamy yellow seat covers and tablecloths, deep floral drapes against understated olive walls and unusual tree and flower arrangements by Rivera's sister, Mayra, of Decoramis, the décor promised something special.

The menu is a mouthwatering mix of Italian and continental cuisine with Creole touches. We ordered appetizers immediately. The garnish of herbs and fried plantain straws added panache. The Beef Carpaccio ($8.95) was tender and flavorful and the Piquillo peppers stuffed with crab salad ($5.95) light and tangy. Our favorite was the Yuca Bimbiola ($5.95), puffs of fried yucca with a sweet onion sauce. The Capriccio Salad ($6.95), a chef's salad with delicate guava vinaigrette and fried potato disks was crisp and interesting.
Capriccio House Salad
Ensalada de la casa

The main course was trickier. The Veal Scallopine with prosciutto and Emmentaler paired with sweet plantains ($19.95), the Pasta Mareone, a chicken dish ($13.95) and Pasta with Vegetables ($11.95) were all flavorsome, well-prepared and well-presented. However, my cholesterol-conscious parents were
Capriccio House Salad
Ensalada de la casa
surprised to find that their pasta sauces, chosen thinking they'd be the lowest in fat, were actually cream-based. Our waiter was quick to exchange for grilled chicken with pasta al'olio, but Capriccio guests with dietary concerns should ask before ordering.

We were too stuffed to partake of much dessert, so shared the house flan ($3.00), a dense and delicious coconut, caramel and amaretto affair.

What a shocker after such an elegant repast to step outside and find ourselves in Añasco instead of San Juan or Ponce!

''I opened Capriccio because the west and my town needed a quality restaurant,'' Rivera told me later. ''And that we are still here proves it.'' His town must be very glad indeed.

Capriccio Ristorante
Manuel Malavé Street #12,
Añasco (Mayagüez)
787-826-3387

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